Finding the diamond in the rough. We have a supplier who offers wonderful quality basics…we’ve done business for years and have built up a trusting relationship. Every once in a while they find some gems in the lots that they purchase. Guess who gets the first call? This was the case recently with this stunning novelty jacquard.
Look closely to see the detail of the weave. The diagonal slant of the yarns creates a visual texture enhanced by the alternating colors of lemon yellow and deep ivory. This jacquard is woven with fine cotton yarns resulting in a lightweight lawn with a luxurious hand. The drape is soft and the design sophisticated...perfect combination for summery blouses, skirts or dresses. We are on the lookout all the time for just such gems! We do our best to bring them to you at affordable prices...this was truly a find and we shared our good fortune with you by making the price so reasonable. We're glad we could do it!
Crisp--soft, shiny-matte, light--dark, wide-narrow, smooth, ragged..... these are the elements of texture and texture is what it's all about! I thought this piece just about said it all.
This unusual complex fabrication was milled in Italy for Alice & Olivia. A lightweight rayon organza has1 in. wide crosswise stripes in pale gray and mossy gray. Woven on the lenghtwise are strips of rayon/linen ribbon in a deep mossy gray. We think the technique is a bit like the crafters chenille (layers stitched one on top of the other and then slit to create fray). The ribbon is woven into the base and then only the top layer is slit, leaving raw edges that fray during finishing.
It's an elegant look for a shirt or light jacket. We have a two way stretch khaki that works well with it for casual or blend it with black for day to evening. Ragtime
I can't let another day go by without commenting on the absolutely delicious wool/cashmere fabric we currently have in stock. I have to post quickly or it will be gone. It's interesting to me that sometimes characteristics that slow down the sale of a fabric can be overridden by other features which make the fabric irresitible!
This incredibly soft and "hand" friendly fabric has a subtle plaid woven in. The plaid is visible enough that it needs to be matched. Some of our customers shy away when they hear the plaid word. I'm not sure why, except that it takes a little extra effort to plan and cut out your garment. Once the planning is done the sewing falls into place easily. But in the case of this gorgeous specimen, all eyes and hands are on the yarns. Fluffy, soft in color and in hand, richly sophisiticated in pattern and coloration and made of the finest precious fibers! What's not to love???
Look closely at the photos and you will see the delicate boucle yarns that create some of the texture. If the photo isn't enough, just ask for a swatch. We'll be happy to send it as long as it lasts.
Two different fabrications, same great print! Did you notice? Above you'll see Archetype, which is a nice cotton satin printed in olive and gold on beige ground. The alternating image is Bosk, a cotton jacquard in beach tan sand overprinted with cinnamon and black. We see this occasionally as we browse through samples from different manufacturers and designers. Sometimes the free lance textile designer sells a print to two or more different buyers; other times a designer with rights to the print produces the same print in different incarnations. Of course, there is also the possibility of unscrupulous dealers who "steal" or re-use designs without authorization. In this case, the fabrics came from the same source so they evidently felt the print would work in two different presentations. We think it does!
Recently a supplier called me to let me know he had found a second roll of an exquisite black tropical wool with a bit of stretch, recently imported from Italy. I had ordered a good bit with my first order, but he knew that I would want to consider this additional amount. He said, are you buying or investing? I wanted to invest. Sometimes it just makes sense to extend yourself and buy it when you see it. We sell a great deal of black tropical wool. We only buy it though when we see the quality that meets our standards...there is a lot of inferior fabric out there in the marketplace! We buy both with and without stretch. This fabrication offers versatility to the custom sewer, both in terms of climate (year round for most areas) and design. Whether you choose a LBD, a dinner suit, day wear separates or a wardrobe builder pair of pants, this fabrication is with you for a long time. When we have it in stock, customers order in stocking quantities (5-10 yards). When we are out of stock, we have a constant stream of requests. So my supplier knew this was something I wanted in the "bank".
We've talked about "stashing" which is a form of collecting---the joy of owning a fabric that you love and the potential that it has for future projects. Investing, however, is different. These fabrics are workhorses that never go out of style. The silhouettes change from year to year, but the classic fabrications stay constant or change at a much slower pace. For instance, black worsted wool---today's version is lightwieght with added stretch, but tropical weight (tuxedo) without stretch is still very much in the mix as is black gab. If you had purchased one of these fabrics ten years ago and needed a new suit today, you could just go to your "bank" of investment fabrics and make a withdrawal.
Other fabrics we chose to "invest" in this fall include navy blue silk and wool herringbone, gray heather lightweight wool, charcoal wool flannel, and black viscose/Lycra jersey knit to name a few. What will you invest in this year? Share your thoughts.
We are in the throes of the fall buying season. Everyday more fabric comes our way and we must pick through mounds of offerings to find just the right fabric for our fall mailers. Sometimes its overwhelming. Every seller wants an answer immediately. One of our privileges is that we often get first dibs with a lot of the vendors, but we are very conscious of the fact that other designers and retailers are waiting for the goods and that our choices dictate what is left to sell. So we work hard to make good selections in a limited time frame. At the height of the buying season, that is challenging! To help us stay focused we have some helpful phrases...
"That's so Sawyer Brook!" is one. If we hear that from staff as we display our options, it carries a lot of weight.
"If its taking this long to decide, there must be something not quite right." Often this makes our decision easier... and we move on.
"The color is right, the texture is stunning and the fiber blend is to die for, but we have no coordinate!!" Here's where the gambling comes into play. Will we find a coordinate this season? Sometimes (many times) we buy the piece anyway. Our gut tells us that the fabric on its own is a collectible and we don't want to deprive our customers of the opportunity to own it. So this is how we forage for fabric, but I thought you'd be interested in Isaac Mizrahi's take on fabric.
I have been watching The Fashion Show on Bravo this season. I started watching it somewhat out of obligation to stay on top of the reality shows that pertain to our industry, but then I was hooked. To read more of my comments on the show, follow along or join in on the Salon.
This week's mini challenge was all about draping.
"Draping is how fabric relates to the human body. It's the most important part of design." ~Isaac Mizrahi
"Know your fabric. If you let the fabric speak for you, if you let it be, it does more than you should." ~Isabel Toledo, guest judge.
"If you start with good fabric it does 70% of the work for you." ~Isaac Mizrahi
All of these comments are near and dear to the heart of a fabric aficionado like myself and like so many of our readers. Isaac compares designers to great cooks who forage for just the right ingredients to create their menus. "If you forage the right fabrics you will have a beautiful collection!"
In my opinion there are four essential elements to producing a garment that you will love. First, there's the vision--the creativity of your minds eye. Then there's the fabrication and findings--top quality breeds top quality, no exceptions. Thirdly, fit--who wants a garment that looks good on the hanger only? Finally the construction and finishing--everything comes together literally at the needle.
We hear lots of would-be sewers complaining that the third element, Fit, is what often destroys the other three. Yes, finding a good fit is very difficult for all of us. BUT, it is possible!
Last week, I had the great pleasure of visiting a new business set to open this past weekend which will be of interest to all sewers (and to those outside the sewing community) because it's all about fit!!
Unique Boutique Boston opened on June 27th and when I visited co-owners Jan and Lorrie were scurrying to put the finishing touches on their new storefront in Billerica, MA. Many of you may have seen Unique Scan at sewing expos around the country. The idea is simple. A customer is scanned with low level laser lights capturing 200,000 measurements. to produce a personalized profile. Once scanned, you can use this profile to order sewing patterns or affordable custom clothing from specified manufacturers. They also offer profiles that help you track your fitness progress. The most fun for sewers in the New England area is that Jan and Lorrie will be offering a wide array of sewing classes. Their facility is brand new and set up perfectly for a great day or evening of sewing. Long tables with ample outlets and comfortable chairs line the middle of the room. Portable cutting tables can be arranged at will and fold out ironing boards accomodate any pressing needs. The artificial lighting is bright and abundant and access to daylight is just steps away through the broad shop windows. Working in a warehouse all day, I loved the clean, fresh feeling of their space.
I'm excited for our local customers to have this option for finding the right fit so readily available. Over time there will be more Unique Scan dealers around the country so keep an eye on their website if you're not in our area. For those close to Billerica, drop in this weekend to get your first scan. For more information, visit their new website at www.uniqueboutiqueboston.com.
In the industry the term "precious" fibers is used to describe cashmere, alpaca, vicuna among others. They are precious indeed both in terms of the limited supply and the lives their produce supports. Today there was an article in the NY Times describing the downturn in demand for cashmere in Mongolia. We in the West are not surprised that demand for luxury goods has waned this year. Manufacturers have re-designed garments to use less of the luxury fiber either in style or size, blending luxury yarns with more affordable fibers and reducing the size range for high value garments. Shepherds and farmers around the world will feel this shift. In addition to a lessening demand for sweaters for the fall season, the Mongolian government has put strong limitations on goatherders for environmental reasons. Evidently the hungry goats have eaten the plains dry, causing major air quality issues in northern China. Herders in Peru are on a strict regimen to protect the endangered vicuna. Australian sheep farmers are carefully monitoring their markets and teaming with production facilities to hone their product-merino wool — to today's demands for quality, value and sustainability.
On the one hand we need to participate in the marketplace that provides livelihoods for farmers and mill workers world-wide, but at the same time we need to let go of demands for goods that are depleting our resources in favor of innovative alternatives. Here at SBDF, we are mindful of this balance. Although heavily entrenched in the global fashion marketplace, we attempt to offer a wide array of choices for our customers that includes "green" fabrics as well as those that are milled responsibly in the fashion capitals of the world.
In reality all our natural fibers are "precious," and it behooves us to be ever vigilant in our balance between savoring the glory of fine fabrics and supporting the on-going availability of our resources — always mindful of the lives our decisions impact.
I've written about the "stash" before, but I thought it was worth re-visiting just to quote another person on the subject.
In addition to sewing, I love to cross-stitch. It's a comfortable craft that requires less of me, especially if I use a chart designed by someone else and don't change the colors (a favorite habit of mine in years past!) Now I stitch for the comfort of the rythym and the tactile pleasure of the linen in my hands. I love to "watch" the design emerge from the fabric as I thread my needle in and out rythmically. I have quite a stash of charts, fabrics and threads, along with unframed finished pieces. Sound familiar? Yes, I have the same type of stash for my sewing passion...fabrics, patterns, and alas, a few unfinished pieces.
Recently, I received the monthly newsletter from The Silver Needle. What a wonderful shop! I hope I live long enough to make my way to OK and visit in person some day, but for now I enjoy their online venue. Lindy writes a monthly newsletter full of info about their latest products and events and sometimes a few personal comments...this one had me at the word STASH.
We had a discussion in the shop today -- centering around THE STASH. THE STASH is your 'home base, your security, your legacy.' (Some poor souls think it's a nagging reminder of what you haven't done yet...) WE, on the other hand, prefer to regard your PRECIOUS STASH as your Potential for Creativity! ~Lindy, The Silver Needle Newlsetter, 5.12.09
Now don't we sewers agree with that concept! I refer to mine as a collection, one to be savored over time and used with care and planning. The potential energy that exists in that stash is palpable and serves to stimulate, entice, comfort and provide pleasure beyond its actual worth. Women, especially, are too quick to feel "guilty" about unused resouces. Whatever your stash is to you... home base, security, legacy... let's remember that sometimes the potential has a worth all its own.
When my husband cooks for us, he makes some marvelous dishes that incorporate many different flavors, colors and consistencies. Last night we had his wonderful chicken salad--poached white meat chicken, granny smith apples, red seedless grapes, raisins or prunes and walnuts-- all blended with a fabulous dressing that he tweaks every time we have it! I love the texture!
Well its the same way with fabric, isn't it? As you know I am a fan of fiber blends, especially if they are primarily blended natural fibers. Lately, we've seen a number of fabrics that not only have blended fiber content, but are blended in surface interest also! There are some seriously fun fabrics in the newest Back Room collections.
For instance, look at this amazing printed knit. The stripes are knitted and the print appears to be underneath the stripes...this is one of those "how dey do 'dat?" fabrics. Here's what we surmise...we think the stripes in the fabric are synthetic and those yarns resist the dye of the print. If you have another theory, let us now. We just know we love it!
See back view to the right. Notice the print is not evident on th back at all. Here's the copy I wrote to try to capture this for our customers.
This incredible printed knit jersey is created with Florida in mind! The print looks to be under the striping giving the appearance of a vision through window blinds. In reality the stripe is knitted and the print created to make it appear that the stripes are on top. Very fun to look at! The colorations are oh so summery! Stripes are soft peach, whisper pink, and soft buttery yellow. The print peeks through in mid-tone aqua, kiwi, toasted coral, chocolate, and nut tones of brown. This is a must have print for a unique top or dress. 48% viscose/47% polyester/5% elastic printed knit from Canvasbacks.) See Royal Palm in The Back Room
This next beauty offers a stunning combination of features. From my perspective the base cloth was dyed, then embroidered, then overprinted and finally crinkled. The result? Incredible depth of color and texture.
Recent Comments
Want to share your thoughts?
Have a question?
Write your Comments at the bottom of any post.